Aubrey Organics: Ingredients Order Discrepancy?

Two recent comments prompted me to contact Aubrey Organics to explain some things! One from CBx mentioning that AOHSR (honeysuckle rose)  advised to deep condition on dry hair and the second from Intelligentbeauty who advised that AOHSR has coconut fatty base as its first ingredient not water

If you can recall in my five ingredients posts ( here and here) I stated that if the first ingredient in a conditioner is not water then you should be highly suspicious. So I penned off a questioning note to AO.

Jc: Should water be the first ingredient? (Highlighting courtesy of me!)

Aubrey Organics says, 'The issue that you bring up is due to different labeling standards used in our labeling and your assessment (that water is among the key ingredients) is correct. Coconut fatty acid cream base is actually made up of many different ingredients such as Water, Cetyl Alcohol, Aloe Vera. The detailed breakdown can be seen in our web site

Jc: Different Labelling Standards?

Aubrey Organics says, 'Before INCI standard (International nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients) become the most accepted standard in cosmetic labeling, Aubrey Organics listed its ingredients in common names. Hence coconut fatty acid cream base is the common name Aubrey Organics choose in its labeling.We are updating our labeling to reflect the newer INCI standards and if listed in INCI, indeed water (aqua) would be among the key ingredients (click on INCI names in our website for more information.)'

Jc: Why deep condition on dry hair?

Aubrey Organics says,'As to applying conditioner to dry hair - some of our conditioners can be left on hair for "deep conditioning."  For instance, GPB Conditioner and Honeysuckle Conditioner are loaded with many nutrient oils and butters such as Wheat Germ oil and Shea butter.While the norm (as listed in labels) is to apply conditioner to damp hair (after shampoo), for deep conditioning of hair the product can be applied to dry hair, left for 15 min.  and then shampoo/condition once more. In summary - applying to dry hair and leaving on for 15 mins allows the hair;to absorb the nutrients.'

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1. My conclusion on the water question: Yes I noticed how AO avoided saying water is the main ingredient but acknowledged it is a 'key ingredient'. I did however note that the coconut fatty acid base does indeed start with water and looks suspiciously like any normal hair conditioner. To cut a long story short, water is always top dog in conditioner formulations (i.e water based ones, if it is a solid clay like paste then different story). It is really highly unlikely that coconut based fatty acids (i.e cetyl, stearyl, cetostearyl alcohol) would be higher than water in a conditioner. These thicken up water at very low levels (circa 3% in water).

2. My conclusion on the deep condition question: I did not place the quotation marks around deep conditioning! (Seriously I didn't, I'm a known sceptic so I have to make it known lol!). As for the explanation, I do not care much for it. I do think an oil coating prior to shampoo can be beneficial. Do shea butter and wheat germ oil actually get absorbed by hair? If so would 15 minutes be enough? I would write to AO again but then again..............maybe not lol.

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As always, my approach is about using facts. My feeling is that AO's products despite the dodgy label (yes it is dodgy in my opinion!) seem to be well received by you, the public. I also appreciate that they took the time to answer my questions (2nd attempt though!) and therefore clearly show they value your custom. I am certain something is right about their formulation and advice. If it works for you, don't change it, I am just a fact seeker!